The Unstructured Sports Coat

Words P Johnson

Less is More; the benefits of unstructured sports jackets and suit jackets.

The jackets pictured have virtually no structure, meaning they have no canvas chest pieces, only a very small sheet just over the front of the shoulder. They breath beautifully, they stretch, they drape and by doing so explicitly exaggerate the more sensual properties of the cloth. They wear a little like knitwear in this sense but otherwise have the same artisanal value that your average structured tailored jacket has.

They’re not ‘additive’ to body like more structured jackets, they tend to reduce and compact the shoulders resulting in a more natural and sometimes sportive look. And what they may lack in apparent tidiness to some, they gain in character and a certain luxurious movement.

It’s a sexier look too, for sartorial wear (heaven forbid), and what’s wrong with that? The body can be seen pushing into the jacket and what lies underneath is suggested. This type of jacket can even look lovely with a fuller or more generous cut by virtue of the way it’ll fall from the bones like a sweater. Some artful imprecision in the cut may even lend a little more swagger or interest to the look, like an ever so slightly wide shoulder point or a slightly too short sleeve for example (it depends on the individual).

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1. First image – PJOHNSON Napoli in Ariston s160 tropical/crepe wool, light grey

2. Second image – PJOHNSON Classic in Arsiton s130 Wool-Linen, navy

3. Third image – PJOHNSON Classic in Ariston s130 tropical/crepe wool, dark brown